A coated floor is about the easiest floor in the house to look after. Most of what goes wrong comes from doing too much to it, not too little. Here's the routine, what to clean it with, what never to use, and the North Florida habits worth having.
Sweep or dust-mop once a week. Hose it down and squeegee it dry when it's muddy or covered in pollen. Every month or two, mop it with a pH-neutral cleaner and rinse with clean water.
Wipe up car fluids when they happen. Never put wax, sealer or a "shine" product on it, and keep acids, bleach and strong solvents off it.
For the first several days after install, use nothing but a broom and plain water. The coating keeps hardening after it's walkable, and we'll give you the exact cure times before we leave.



Grit is what dulls a coated floor. Under shoes and tires it works like fine sandpaper, so most of this routine is about getting it off.
A soft broom or a microfiber dust mop picks up sand, grit and leaves without scratching the top coat.
Red clay, sand and storm runoff ride in on tires and shoes. Rinse the floor and push the water out the door with a rubber squeegee so grit doesn't dry onto it.
In spring, pine and oak pollen coats everything in a yellow-green film. A rinse and a squeegee clears it; don't let it build up and get ground in.
Damp-mop with a pH-neutral floor cleaner mixed to its label, then go over the floor with clean water so no film is left. On a textured flake finish, a soft deck brush gets into the texture better than a mop.
Check the edges, the spots where the tires sit and the strip by the door. If anything looks wrong, call or text us.
Not sure about a product? Call or text (850) 544-5946 and ask before you use it. It's a two-minute answer.
The top coat resists car fluids and most of what lands on a garage floor, but resisting isn't the same as ignoring.
Tire marks
Those yellow-brown marks come from chemicals added to tire rubber that slowly migrate into whatever the tire sits on, faster when tires are hot. A damp melamine sponge with a little pH-neutral cleaner usually lifts light marks. Parking pads prevent them.
Car fluids
Brake fluid, battery acid, gasoline, antifreeze and washer fluid left to sit can dull or stain the finish. For a big oil spill, soak it up with cat litter or absorbent pads first, sweep that up, then mop.
Hosing out
Storm drains are meant for rain, not soap and oil. Sweep first, use as little water as the job needs, and let the rinse water run onto the lawn rather than down the driveway to the street.
Most real damage to a coated floor comes from impact and dragging, not everyday wear:
Scratches and stains are on the care side of the line: our written 10-year warranty covers delamination, meaning the coating letting go of the concrete. It doesn't cover concrete failure or surface scratches, and the full terms are in your written quote.

Four things about this climate that change how you look after a coated floor.
On a warm, muggy day after a cool spell, humid air condenses on the cooler slab and the whole floor can look damp with nothing spilled. That's surface condensation, and it clears when you open the door or run a fan. Any smooth floor is slicker when it's wet, so walk carefully until it does.
Shaded outdoor floors can grow mildew. A soft brush and a cleaner labeled safe for coated surfaces, tested in a corner first and rinsed well, takes care of it.
If you live toward the coast, rinse salt spray and blown-in sand off porches and patios now and then, so grit and salt don't sit on the surface.
If a storm pushes water and silt into the garage, hose the silt out, rinse, squeegee and let the floor dry with the door open. A coated floor is far easier to clean up than bare concrete.
Sweep or dust-mop it weekly, hose it down and squeegee the water out when it's muddy, and every month or two damp-mop it with a pH-neutral floor cleaner, then rinse with clean water. Wipe up car fluids as they happen.
Plain water for routine cleaning, and a pH-neutral floor cleaner mixed to its label when you need more. Go easy on soap, which leaves a dull, slippery film, and keep acids, bleach and strong solvents off the floor. Rinse whatever you use.
You don't need to. A garden hose and a squeegee clean a coated floor. If you do use a pressure washer, keep it on a low setting, hold the tip well back from the surface and stay away from edges and cracks.
No. The top coat already provides the gloss and the protection. Wax or sealer on top clouds the finish and makes the floor slippery.
Try a damp melamine sponge with a little pH-neutral cleaner, then rinse. The marks come from chemicals in tire rubber that migrate into the floor over time, so the sooner you catch them, the easier they lift. Parking pads under the tires prevent them.
For a while, yes. For mats that stay down for months, avoid solid rubber backings: softeners in some rubber can stain a coating, especially where moisture is trapped underneath. Fabric-backed mats or mats made for coated floors are the safer choice.
Rinse and squeegee. On a coated floor, pollen and clay sit on top of the surface instead of soaking into the concrete, so they come off with water. Sweep often in pollen season so it doesn't get ground in.
Our written 10-year warranty covers delamination, meaning the coating letting go of the concrete. It doesn't cover concrete failure or surface scratches, and the full terms are set out in your written quote. Good care is what keeps the surface looking new.
We'll come out, test the slab and give you one clear price in writing. The visit is free, with no pressure to book.